1D modelling of infragravity wave propagation on fringing reef using swash

Abstract

This paper presents wave propagation process on an idealized fringing reef profile using numerical model, in which infra-gravity wave motion is of major concern. The results show that SWASH is capable to accurately predict infra-gravity wave initiated at the reef face and reef crest for the case of high reflection coefficient at back reef with the model skill in range between 0.94 and 0.98. Over 24 scenarios, SWASH tends to slightly underestimate the spectra wave height in compared to measured one. Moreover, for low relative reef flat submergence, Hm0i/d, SWASH does not account correctly the breaking position which affects the wave energy dissipation.